Art in Assos Behramkale, Tezhip and Hat from the hands of Hulya Kalayci

Have you ever come across with the illuminated manuscripts ("tezhip" in Arabic and the Ottoman Turkish, or "bezeme" in plain Turkish) on some dried plant leaves while traveling along Turkey? Well, in Assos, you can find and enjoy fine examples of this almost extinct art. Hülya Kalaycı of Hülya Sanat Evi - Hülya Art House is a certified and one of the very few calligraphy and manuscript artists in Turkey.

Those "some dried plant leaves" are not any leaves that one can easily obtain anywhere... Leaves of the poisonous plant called "dieffenbachia" are the ideal ones for this art. First, they are treated to a reasonable pressure between book pages for 18 months. Then, when they are dry and smooth and ready to receive their gold make-up, they are carefully handled by the artist.

The Arabic word for this art, "tezhip", literally means "to apply gold on a substance" and derives from another Arabic word, "zeheb", which means gold. Male tezhip artists are called "muzehhip" and the female are "muzehhibe"s. The gold applied on the leaves arrive in the hands of Hülya Kalaycı as very thin layers called "varak" which also means leaf in Farsi.

The main themes and figures depicted with gold and other traditional colors on the dieffenbachia leaves are generally made of Arabic letters, formed in such ways that they will form ornamental shapes, and mostly composing verses of Kuran. Thanks to their flexible visual structure in combination, Arabic letters have been traditionally and frequently used in the Islamic visual arts. This method of ornamental calligraphy is called "hat" in Turkish; and the artists are the "hattat"s.

The beautiful example in the photo in this page is a precious wedding gift to us from dear Hülya and Cevat. Hülya Sanat Evi is only a few steps away from our hotel. Make sure to visit their shop and maybe you can take a fine specimen of traditional Turkish art home.

Ancient Site Assos Behramkale

Excavations in Assos, Behramkale

Newly unearthed mosaic in Assos, Behramkale 2014
Photo courtesy of Prof. Nurettin Arslan.

Assos was the first site to be excavated by the Archaeological Institute of America as it was also the first archaeological excavation ever for Assos, between 1881-1883. 

The findings from these excavations were shared between the Ottoman Empire and the Archaeological Institute of America according to the contract signed between sides. Today you can see findings from Assos, at Canakkale Archaeological Museum, at Istanbul Archaeological Museum, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, Paris Louvre and Metropolitan New York City.

The next official excavation in Assos was directed by the deceased archaeologist Prof. Umit Serdaroglu from 1981 until 2005. Aside from being an archaeologist Prof. Serdaroglu was also a graduate of architecture. He has initiated the restoration of the ancient amphitheater in Bodrum, founded restoration departments at Fine Arts Faculties in two different universities.

Since 2006, current excavations are directed by Prof. Nurettin Arslan from Canakkale 18 Mart University. Dr. Beate Böhlendorf -Arslan also participates in the excavations when she can find time from her own studies. Dr. Beate Böhlendorf is an academic historian; she has studied pre, early and mid history later concentrating on Byzantine history. She is currently teaching at Johannes Gutenberg University in Mainz. Assos, living in the rocks, is a book written by the couple and you can find the book online and also can purchase it at the entrance of the temple of Athena in Behramkale, Assos.